Madrid Camino Day 26 – Fonfria to Samos
Wed, May 31
What a wonderful day today! I had a spectacular nine and a half hour sleep after having been fed an astounding Galician home cooked meal of rich spinach and bean soup, thick steak, homemade fries done in beef fat and homemade whiskey ice cream. The inn was silent, the bed and bedding were heavenly – undoubtedly my best night to date. Also, I really pampered my legs and it payed off. I walked virtually pain free today. Also, I was completely alone because I took a variant trail that, though it is a few hours longer, is not used by pilgrims in a hurry (and most are at this stage of the walk).
Today’s walk was a long, gradual descent beginning above the clouds in mountain pastures and ending in almost rainforest-like conditions following a river valley and winding through little old villages.
I was happy all day, and my whistling was accompanied by birdsong, cowbells and waterfalls. I passed an 800 year old chestnut tree and walked on trails worn deep by millions of feet over the millenia. Foxgloves everywhere. And cow shit, cow shit, cow shit!
My room tonight in Samos is in the Hostal Costa Victoria, directly above waterfall whose sound is soporific – I am anticipating another good sleep. Tomorrow I’ll make it to Sarria in a very short walk and plan to take a half day to prepare myself for the final push to Santiago – and beyond!